The EU has banned 1,703 cosmetic ingredients. Two early casualties tell us why that number keeps growing.
A history of banned beauty ingredients
Back in 2009, European regulators banned diethylene glycol (DEG) and phytonadione (vitamin K1) from cosmetics. Most companies had already dropped them, but some organic brands were still using both.
Those bans changed everything. Suddenly, 'natural' didn't automatically mean safe. Today, the EU bans 1,703 cosmetic ingredients. That number grows every year as we learn more about what these substances actually do to skin.
Why DEG remains restricted
Diethylene glycol looks like glycerine but it's toxic. You'll find it in antifreeze, not face cream. You might remember it from the contaminated toothpaste scandal that killed dozens of people in Panama.
While DEG itself is banned as an ingredient, the EU allows trace amounts under 0.1% when it's technically unavoidable in production.
At Pai, we use vegetable-derived glycerine exclusively. Our COSMOS certification means we can only source from approved suppliers who guarantee no DEG contamination. Manufacturing everything in our London lab gives us complete control over ingredient purity.
The vitamin K1 story
Vitamin K1 was marketed for bruising and swelling, especially after cosmetic procedures.
In 2006 it was banned in France by the health regulator Afssaps. Twelve people had severe allergic reactions. All developed eczema on their face and body. Six cases were severe enough to require hospitalisation.
But allergic reactions weren't the worst part. Afssaps says that K1 can also compromise the use of certain medicines and drugs, specifically those to treat hemorrhaging conditions. The agency says there is now clear evidence that because of the way K1 reduces the effectiveness of certain anti-coagulants and other injectable treatments for hemorrhaging conditions this means the inclusion of K1 in cosmetic products could put sufferers' health at risk. Someone who develops a sensitivity to vitamin K1 from cosmetics might not be able to receive it as life-saving medication later.
What replaced vitamin K1?
After the ban, some brands switched to vitamin K oxide (phytonadione epoxide). That turned out to be a mistake. People kept having severe allergic reactions, so the EU banned it in 2009. To replace it, the cosmetic industry introduced phytonadione epoxide (Vitamin K oxide), but this too has caused ACD, including severe skin reactions and photoinduced responses.
A 2024 study called it 'an emerging epidemic' after tracking 20 severe cases across Spain. The EU is now gathering data for a potential ban on this replacement ingredient too.
How we formulate differently
This is exactly why we don't chase trendy actives. Our vegetable glycerine comes from certified suppliers. Our formulations undergo independent patch testing on sensitive skin.
When new bans come through, we're usually already compliant. Formulating for sensitive skin means being more careful than regulations require.
If you're checking ingredient lists (and you should), know that vitamin K2 is considered safe. But if a product doesn't specify K1 or K2, skip it. And while COSMOS certification like ours doesn't guarantee zero reactions, it does mean every ingredient has been vetted for purity and safety.
More ingredients will get banned. Each ban represents lessons learned about what these substances actually do to skin. At Pai, we'll keep formulating with the most rigorous standards, so you never have to worry about what's in your skincare.
